Renaissance before Renaissance: Exploring Frescos of the Monastery of St. Panteleimon
These frescoes, with their dramatic composition and purity of expression, are outstanding examples of Byzantine medieval monumental painting from the later 12th century.
The Monastery of St. Panteleimon, nestled in village Gorno Nerezi near Skopje, is a treasure trove of Byzantine art and architecture. This 12th-century Byzantine church, dedicated to St. Panteleimon, the patron saint of physicians, is a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage.
The church, constructed in 1164 by Alexios Angelos, a son of Eastern Roman aristocrat Constantine Angelos, is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, featuring a domed cruciform core, three apses, and a rectangular narthex. Its construction utilized irregular stone blocks and brick embedded in thick layers of mortar, showcasing the architectural prowess of the period.
The frescoes within the church are renowned for their Komnenian-era Byzantine art, depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ and various hagiographical illustrations. These frescoes, with their dramatic composition and purity of expression, are outstanding examples of Byzantine medieval monumental painting from the later 12th century. The lamentation of Christ fresco is described as being a fusion of life and death in a single image as Mary movingly mourns Jesus, cradling him between her legs. According to British art historian and writer Andrew Graham-Dixon, these frescoes from the 1160s precede Giotto’s similar emotional frescoes from the Arena Chapel in Padua, circa 1305.
Despite being damaged by an earthquake in the 16th century, the church underwent restoration efforts that preserved its original marble iconostasis, albeit losing its decorative plastic art. The surrounding monastery complex, enclosed by walls, adds to the serene and contemplative atmosphere of the site.
The Monastery of St. Panteleimon is not just a religious site but also a cultural landmark. Its stucco decoration is featured on the obverse of the Macedonian 50 denars banknote, issued in 1996, highlighting its significance in the country’s cultural identity.




